Apa and Phurba Tashi are the two Sherpas that have the highest ascents records. The British record for the highest ascent record is held by Kenton Cool, who has reached the mountain peak 11 times, of which two in a week in There is a staggering age range for Mount Everest climbers. Yuichiro Miura from Japan being the most elderly person at 80 in while Jordan Romero being the youngest climber from America at 13 in There are also disabled climbers that have reached the mountain summit, a blind American Erik Weihenmayer and a double amputee Mark Inglis from New Zealand are some of the disabled climbers ever to reach the summit.
Between and , an overall of people have passed on while trying to climb Mt Everest. Commercial expedition operators are the primary choice of most climbers.
The prices vary widely. The money is inclusive of services like a western guide that leads the expedition with local support Sherpas climbers. Of recent, some local operators that are new in the business have been offering the services at much lower prices.
This has however raised complaints concerning safety and levels of pay for Sherpas. It is mandatory for all expeditions to pay for helicopter insurance and life insurance. Government taxes and fixed charges are the primary cost of Mount Everest climbing.
The Nepali government receives the peak fees from the climbers. Despite the risks, Everest draws hundreds of mountaineers from around the world to its slopes each year. In the Nepal Ministry of Tourism issued individual climbing permits to foreign climbers, and reports that of them summited, along with high-altitude workers.
On the North side of the mountain, meanwhile, respected Everest chronicler Alan Arnette estimates that an additional people reached the summited. For local logistics companies and the Government of Nepal, Everest is big business. The industry is built on the backs of a small cadre of professional Nepalese guides who work together each spring to prepare the route with fixed ropes and ladders, stock each camp with essentials like tents, stoves, bottled oxygen, and food, and then patiently coach their foreign guests up to the summit.
In recent years, thanks to educational opportunities like the Khumbu Climbing Center , Nepalese guides have begun to receive training and certifications to international standards. The best weather for reaching the top of Everest typically arrives in the second half of May, but preparations for a successful ascent begin months beforehand. Most teams assemble in Kathmandu in late March to begin acclimatization.
As they trek toward basecamp, their basecamp support staff and high-altitude workers are already on the mountain, carrying loads and preparing the route to the summit. By the second week in May, teams hope to have an established trail of several miles of fixed ropes leading from basecamp to the summit, with several well-stocked camps along the way. If all goes well, most Everest climbers are done with the mountain and on their way home by the beginning of June.
As of the end of the season, the Himalayan Database reports that people are known to have died climbing Everest, while there have been 9, successful summit climbs by 5, people. The overall death rate—the number of fatalities divided by the overall number of people on the mountain, not just those who summit—is approximately 1. But the deaths drastically declined from to with 7, summits and deaths, or 1. The actual summit of the mountain is a small dome of snow about the size of a dining room table.
The last new route to be climbed on the mountain was accomplished by a team of hearty Russians in How one chooses to climb it is as much a reflection of creativity as skill. In the previous 18 months, I climbed over 30 14, Colorado and California mountains with lb packs. Also climbed Vinson and Aconcagua in the prior 4 months. I lost about 10 pounds before coming to EBC then lost another 15 pounds mostly muscle mass which is usual in the early expedition time; which was a bit too much.
It is said you have to be in the best shape of your life to climb Everest. The standard program is to stay there once, but I found by staying there each rotation, I was able to manage my energy more evenly and not wear myself out trying to go from BC to C2 in one big push.
Also, I pushed the envelope a bit by staying at Camp 2 three nights instead of the normal two on the first rotation. Reviewing my own prior performance, I changed my supplemental oxygen plan.
Also, I used an extra bottle of oxygen on the final summit push from the South Col. At age 46 with 12 Everest summits, K2, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and many other climbs, he had the maturity, experience and personality I needed.
We spent time getting to know each other with local climbs, shared tents, meals and became friends. He understood the importance of this climb to me in spite of the culture and language difference. His gentle touch yet strong focus was what the Doctor ordered.
I never understood how much reserves my body really had. Again, many people talk about mental toughness but a simple note one time from Clive Jones, a climbing friend, and discussing directly with Jim Davidson, a dear climbing friend, about his Rainier tragedy www. So in the last few years, I have been working on mental toughness.
When the time came on Everest to push my body, my mind was willing. She did it with class, dignity and humor. She never let on how much it hurt. In addition, knowing that there are millions going through the same struggle inspired me knowing that all of you were watching me.
I simply could not let you down. So perhaps the pace went a little quicker. Q: Tell me more about Alzheimer's. A: Alzheimer's, is the most common cause of dementia, afflicting 24 million people worldwide. It is a progressive and terminal disease for which there is currently no cure. In its most common form, it occurs in people over 65 years old although a less-prevalent early onset form also exists. It usually begins many years before it is eventually diagnosed. In its early stages, short-term memory loss is the clearest symptom: this leads to confusion, anger, mood swings, language breakdown, long-term memory loss, and the general 'withdrawal' of the sufferer as his or her senses decline.
Gradually the sufferer loses minor, and then major bodily functions, until death occurs. Although the symptoms are common, people commonly experience them in a unique way. The duration of the disease is estimated between 5 and 20 years Q: Tell me more about the fund raising and your mom.
A: It was frustrating to see all her life memories just slip away. While she was comfortable and never complained, she slowly lost her short term memory, then long term memory, the ability to care for herself, her identity and eventfully her life. While there is excellent research underway it is to late for my mom. Q: Why didn't you donate the money you spent on climbing instead of on your climbs?
A: I discussed this at length with the Cure Alzheimer's Fund and my sponsors. We all agreed that awareness was equally important as money at this point. I hoped that by having , hits a day to my website during the climbs that the awareness of Alzheimer's is increased and that will lead to donations now or in the future.
Q: Are you still accepting donations for Alzheimer's fund raising? A: Yes, thank you. You can make a donation on-line at Cure Alzheimer's Fund. All donations go to research - zero to the Fund's overhead or my climbing. A: Reputation on Everest and my personal experience with them on Ama Dablam in Guy Cotter runs a solid operation with a full time office staff.
He uses the same Sherpas and cooks for most of his Himalayan expeditions. They performed well. It was large team that included researchers from Brown University. At one point we had 30 people in base camp. The base camp staff, with Chhombga as the cook, were excellent as were the climbing Sherpas. All question were answered quickly.
Guy was there and served as the base camp Manager and made sure that everything went smoothly. AC kept a full time cook at Camp 2 and at Camp 4 which was a great benefit after long days. Q: Which route did you take and how were the conditions? A: The South Col. After the 30 mile trek from Lukla to base camp - acclimatizing along the way, we climbed through the Khumba icefall five times.
This was the most dangerous part due to the shifting glacier. It can move a foot a day and can release house-sized blocks of ice without any notice. There were four High Camps at 19,; 21,; 23, and 26, All towards the summit of 29, See the page on the South Col Route for a concise series of pictures and route descriptions. It was Hot, cold and windy! It was warm in We regularly saw high temperatures above 80F. In the direct sun on the Western Cwm, it reached over F.
We had to be extremely careful about severe sunburn. At night, temperatures reached F. The winds were one of the biggest problems that year and flattened many tents at Camp 2 during one storm. As happens every year, the jet stream takes a break in early May that opens a window for summit attempts. Usually this is around May 10, but in it was around May In , it happened around May Q: How did you do in ?
A: I reached about 27, feet m just under the Balcony. I developed a lung infection that dramatically reduced my ability to transfer the little oxygen available from my lungs to my muscles. I was out about three hours when I started to cough.
My cough was continuous and extreme. At the end of each episode, I felt as if I wanted to vomit and I in fact dry heaved and gagged at the end of each coughing session. I know this is distasteful, but it was what happened.
I continued this way for about an hour. With a Sherpa behind me, I never felt in jeopardy. I did know, however, that my summit bid was at serious risk. Moving slowly, I was the last person of the AC team on the Hill. I drank some water and took some concentrated carbohydrates to see if it would revive me.
I rested. But it was not to be. I thought deeply and carefully about turning around. My decision was based primarily on not getting better and considered my ability to safely descend after gaining more altitude.
Please see the Everest page for a complete trip report. The Climb Q: Why did you go back in ? Wasn't that too quick? A: Ahh, the question everyone asks and the one that is hardest to answer. The short story Everest - Unfinished Business tries to shed some light but I think it boils down to I just wanted to. I need five stars to align for me to try something of this magnitude: support from my employer, time off, money, support from my family and a deep personal desire.
They were there for the '02 attempt and re-emerged for ' I thought about the night of May 15, a lot. What went well, what didn't. What would I do different if I had another chance and so on. Q: Why did you choose Adventure Consultants in when they didn't get you to the top in '02 A: Interesting question of who is responsible for making the summit or not.
It is perfectly clear for me. The Guides are there to give you the opportunity but it is ultimately up to the individual climber. I appreciated their professionalism and attention to details. The group gear they provided was first rate and their Guides are world-class with all the experience you would ever need. They use the same Sherpas on each trip so there are few surprises.
On Everest '02, I saw many expeditions that were understaffed or seemed to have guides climbing for themselves. He is truly first class. I was overall pleased with Guy Cotter and the AC team in The logistic were very well done. The food at base camp was outstanding and the Sherpas second to none. Q: So how did Adventure Consultants perform in ? A: We had a small team. In fact, Guy wanted to cancel the trip two weeks before we were to leave since the turnout was so low.
But another climber joined thus keeping the trip viable. All the Sherpas had stood on top of Everest at least once and Ang Dorge 8 times! I knew everyone one this trip except for my two fellow climbers.
However, their performance was mixed. The Sherpas and base camp services were excellent as usual. The pre-trip interaction was not in AC's excellent tradition. The expedition became difficult towards the end with the guide becoming abusive. All the climbing Sherpas made the summit but none of the clients or the Guide. I spoke with Guy after the trip and sent him a detailed letter with my concerns.
He responded with sincerity and he made some changes to his operation based on my comments and from several other clients.
A: I reached the same spot as in - about 27, feet m just under the Balcony. My body just did not perform well. I had trouble with the altitude above C2. It started as we went to C3 on an acclimatizion trip. I returned to BC after spending the night at C3 or 23,' but never really got stronger. I suffered from a chronic cough and fatigue. I never felt I was in danger or was putting my teammates into danger so I continued with the expedition and climbed to the South Col at m.
I left with the team for the summit and turned backed at m. The Climb Q: Why did you go back when you did not summit in and ? A: Two reasons: 1 raise awareness and money for Alzheimer's research and 2 I wanted to. Now that I am retired different factors enter into my decisions but two are still critical: support from my family and a deep personal desire.
My 82 year-old Mother had Alzheimer's in and was in a full time care facility. However, there are teams that descend down to camp 2 and stay there overnight. You will not need supplemental oxygen if you stay at camp 2. This reduces your cost of climbing to some extent. For detail Itinerary visit: Mt. Everest Expedition. Though Tibetan side is less popular for climbing Mt. Everst, there are trekkers who choose to trek from the northern side.
The climbers who attempt to climb Everest on the Tibetan side should know one thing. The Chinese border are sometimes closed with no notice of closing. This is also a reason why Nepalese side is more popular for Everest climbing. On the Tibetan side, climbers can drive to the base camp of Everest. There is a mountaineering association called as CMA that takes them to the base camp. You can reach the base camp from Lhasa in nearly 5 to 6 days.
Climbing Mt. It is much tougher than that. The weather, temperature and climbing conditions at Everest are demanding. You ought to acclimatize a long acclimatization schedule before you could reach the summit successfully and get back down. So, it is basically in the late March that the summit days begin.
They begin from the base camp. Southern base camp of Everest, Nepalese side 5, meters is the most popular side for climbing Everest. Climbers begin summiting at midnight and will acclimatize at the camps in the mornings and days.
They acclimatize at the base camp for 4 to 5 days at the base camp. Then, they climb halfway above the Khumbu glacier. And there is again a few days acclimatizing before they climb up to camp 1. They stay at the first camp for two nights and again get back to the base camp.
They again climb to camp 1, will stay a night there and then will start ascending to camp 2. Camp 2 is the base of Mt. The process of ascending up and acclimatizing to that altitude making their way goes on for long. The journey up to the summit is deadliest. The risk factor is very high whole summiting Everest. This is why a long duration is necessary for the process. The climbing season in Everest occurs between April and May. Climbers start Mt. Everest expedition in late March. It takes around two months 64 days to climb Everest.
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